BUZZ WORDS
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In the Beginning Was The Bean
IN THE BEGINNING were the goats, and the goats were with
Kaldi,
and the goats Were Kaldi's, and Kaldi and the goats were happy
wandering
the mountains and hills of Ethiopia (or maybe Yemen... we aren't
absolutely
sure...) and life was slow and languid and easy. Point of fact, life
was
so slow and so languid and so easy that, yea, verily, Kaldi and his
goats
were actually pretty bored and becoming rather lazy. But life for Kaldi
and his goats didn't require any more energy than was needed to meander
to the next good grazing field.
And lo, it came to pass that in one of these fair grazing
fields there grew some trees, trees that bore fruit that was, at that
time,
unknown to Kaldi (and undoubtedly unknown to the goats...). As Kaldi
sat
contemplating whatever it is that lazy goat herds contemplate, the
goats
took a golden opportunity to munch on the fruit of the unknown trees.
And
it came to pass, as these things do, that the goats began to frolic
about
- actually they frolicked a lot! And Kaldi watched and marveled at the
amazing activity of his normally languid goats. And the more they ate
of
the fruit of the tree, the more they frolicked, nigh unto the point of
dancing. Unwilling to let his goats have all the fun, Kaldi went unto
the
trees and picked some of the fruit and checked it out. And verily, the
fruit seemed to be that of a cherry, but a cherry that was like unto no
cherry that Kaldi had ever seen before. And Kaldi ate the cherry, pit
and
all (a very important point in this narrative) and though the fruit was
bitter and (frankly) pretty foul, the pit itself was reasonably
palatable.
And, more to the point, it seems that the pit itself was the cause of
the
dancing antics of Kaldi's goats, for the more that Kaldi ate of the
pits,
the more he felt like dancing... or running or swimming or jumping or
hiking
or greeting the morning or commuting or working or doing a term
paper
or running a staff meeting or driving a truck or golfing or performing
surgery or staying up late and partying. And it was good!
Kaldi had discovered coffee.
There in the wilds of Ethiopia (or maybe Yemen) and not so
many hundreds of years ago, the young goat herd's discovery changed the
course of human events in a way that eclipses the discovery and
exploitation
of petroleum or the splitting of the atom. Monastic communities rose up
to decry the evils of coffee drinking, making long pilgrimages to Rome
to urge the pope himself ban the use of the Bean only to discover that
the pope (himself!) was one of coffee's greatest fans. That fact alone
changed Italy into the Mecca's of world wide coffee consumption. (Head
anywhere in Italy now and you will experience an espresso bar on every
city, town, or village corner.) The Bean spread throughout the
Mediterranean
and became the focus of an effort and a dream that continues to this
day:
how to make the absolutely best cup of coffee. The Bean was dried; the
Bean was crushed; the Bean was boiled; the Bean was eaten; the Bean was
added to cakes and cookies; the Bean was used in cosmetics; the Bean
was
baked into breads; the Bean was used as currency; the Bean was the
crown
jewel in a dowry; the Bean was the fair damsel over which armies
battled;
the Bean was the single most sought after drug throughout the Middle
East
and carried its rich roasted fame and intensity to the New World where,
in Central and South America it would become the single most important
crop in the history of humanity. And still it is the world's drug of
choice.
Americans (North and South Americans all included) consume more coffee
than water. Every ethnic group has developed its own special formula
for
preparing the Bean, and half the fun of the Bean is experiencing all
the
ways it appears in life!
Heavenly coffee? Good to the last drop?
Coffee Rules!
Bill and Steav are the owners and master baristas of
The COFFEE CONNECTION, 148 Water Street, in Oswego.
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TO SERVE HUMANITY: Grilling The Customer
Ah, summertime! The great outdoors! Sailing, hiking,
in-lining,
swimming, camping, biking, and grilling. Yay Grilling! But the Great
American
Summer Pastime of grilling often takes a decidedly different turn when
you make your first few visits to your local coffee emporium. We
periodically
ask friends why they haven't yet been down to visit our shoppe and the
usual response is the same vague and timid response you get from anyone
who doesn't actually want to come out and tell you the honest truth.
They've
been so busy; they really don't drink coffee (even though their spouse
comments on their pot and a half a day habit); they aren't sure when we
are open; they keep forgetting to swing by; where IS your shoppe,
anyway?
But the truth is (according to recent coffee shoppe converts)
they are afraid of the GRILLING. It goes something like this:
(Camera pans in on any local coffee shoppe) Barista: Hi! Can I help
you?
Customer: Um, yeah... at least I hope so. I don't really know what
I want. (takes long nervous look at the 217 ways coffee is being served
in this particular establishment and sighs).
Barista: OK, would you like something hot or cold?
Customer: Right. Hot, I think. Yes. Definitely hot.
Barista: (sipping from an amazingly tiny little coffee mug) Caffeine
or not-caffeine?
Customer: Oh, well, caffeine... sure...
Barista: Chocolate or not-chocolate?
Customer: Huh? Well I really like chocolate so, uh yeah, I guess
chocolate.
Barista: Great! Would you like the drink made with coffee or tea?
Customer: (stammering) Chocolate and tea? Er, I don't think so.
Better make it with coffee.
Barista: (taking another hit from the tiny mug) Super! With Regular
coffee, Flavored coffee, or with Espresso?
Customer: (looking nervously over their shoulder at the line
beginning
to form behind them) Gosh, I've never had expresso before. Isn't that
awfully
strong?
Barista: (emphasizing the sibilant in the word) Actually eSpresso
is somewhat sweet when it is made right. But I can make your drink with
Regular or Flavored coffee if you prefer.
Customer: (forcing a smile) No, no... that's OK. I guess I oughta
try expresso. I mean, I'm in a coffee shoppe after all. Heh heh heh...
Barista: (beginning to speak noticeably faster) Excellent! Single
or double?
Customer: (confused) Well, I'm single, actually. Does that make
a difference?
Barista: (taking a final hit from the tiny mug) Oh, no.I mean do
you want a single or double shot?
Customer: (markedly more confused) Shot? of what? I'm only 17. I
don't drink alcohol.
Barista: (eyes unobtrusively rolling) Sorry, eSpresso is drawn by
the shot. Would you like one shot of eSpresso in your drink or two?
Customer: (giggling nervously) Right. I knew that. Honest. Um, one
shot of expresso is enough, i guess. I don't want to be awake the next
four nights, right?
Barista: (nodding sagely but rapidly) Right! And a good eSpresso
packs a real punch. Steamed milk?
Customer: (tiring of the questions) Yes, please.
Barista: (picking up steam) 1%, 2%, 4%, skimmed or breve?
Customer: (realizing that asking what the heck a "breve" is will
be a dangerous move) Skimmed, please.
Barista: (winding up for the knockout punch) Excellent! Tall,
Grande,
or Ultra Grande?
Customer: (sensing a winning move) Never mind - Could I just have
a bottled water?
Barista: (knowing when he's beaten) Oh... er...um... for here or
to go?
(Camera fades to black... with sweet & lo)
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THE REAL TRUTH ABOUT COFFEE: REVEALED!
The secret has been guarded for centuries. Coffee growers,
roasters, wholesalers, retailers, and most of all Baristas have
been sworn
to secrecy since the Bean first emerged from Ethiopia (or maybe
Yemen,
right...) And it is one of those secrets so sacred that if we tell
you,
they may have to kill us. But we have a column to get out and, at
the risk
of our very lives and our immortal souls, we refuse to disappoint
our
publisher. So here it is. Please, destroy (well, perhaps recycle)
this
newspaper column as soon as you have read it. Ready?
There are only two kinds of coffee in the entire world.
(The end is near...) But it's true, only two. And, contrary
to
popular Oswego urban legend they are NOT our beans and *$'s. They
are
Robustas and Arabicas. Only two! Allow us to explain in greater
detail
(before "they" get us). Coffee beans are the pit of a cherry from
a cherry
tree (surprise!) and there are only two kinds of cherry trees that
produce
coffees. Robusta beans are one. They are the smaller of the two
and grow
easily at low altitudes in the tropical mountains. They are
abundant,
they
are prolific, and they are bitter. And they are what most people
think of
when they think of coffee. Those canned grounds in the grocery store
are
full of robusta beans. The coffee served at your local Kwickie-Mart
is
probably robusta beans. Robustas are usually served shockingly hot,
cooked
on a burner for unbelievable hours, sometimes percolated (arguuuuh!)
and
usually seek to wake you up by kicking you in the stomach and the
head
first thing in the morning. Surely a rude awakening; hardly
civilized.
And
because we know our publisher (bless him!) isn't interested in a
weekly
column about robusta beans that have been sitting around in some
warehouse
for the past three years after being roasted in two ton batches,
we shall
go directly to the real secret of truly great coffee.
Arabica. The Bean. Grown in high altitudes, thriving only
in
tropical mountains, carefully cultivated because of its smoothness
and
sweetness as a beverage, constantly agriculturally managed because
of its
fragile nature, chock full o'caffeine and hand picked by Vestal
Virgins
(well, maybe not... but they are hand picked...) and sold to
thoughtful
roasters who roast the coffee on demand (instead of months ahead
of time)
and ship it the same day to your local coffee emporium who serve
it within
the next 30 days! Arabica. The Bean.
Harder than their poorer cousin robustas, more fragrant than
the
finest French perfume, sweeter than fresh cream, these are the Beans
that
the world has come to think of in passionate terms for these many
centuries. Sadly, robustas became the usual cup of 'high test' in
the
colonies because the far more expensive Arabicas were all being
shipped to
Europe and the Mediterranean for consumption by the aristocracy.
But now,
thanks to determined private coffee roasters (and *$'s) baristas
from sea
to shining sea are introducing the New World to Arabicas! The Bean.
Usually, trends have tended to travel from the east to west
coasts,
but not so the amazing burst of 'gourmet' Arabica coffees. The Mecca
of
U.S. coffee shoppe cities is Seattle, Washington. It didn't start
there,
but it spread from there. Twenty years ago there were exactly 5
coffee
shoppes in downtown Seattle serving Arabicas. Last year there were
over
300. Glancing around Oswego gives one pause: how many coffee shoppes
will
there be in our fair city in twenty years? And gradually but
inexorably,
like anything that is as cosmically predestined as great coffee,
the
American taste bud is becoming accustomed to a smoother coffee,
a sweeter
coffee, a fresher coffee, not the bitter or medicinal or
scalding
or
boiling hot coffee of our forbearers, not crawling up from the
bowels
of a
never-washed percolator like something from the primordial ooze.
Americans,
who once drank less than 1/2% of all Arabicas grown in the world,
now
account for over 50% of the splendid Bean.
A currently retired friend of ours once said she began to
drink
coffee years ago because "something that tastes that bad simply
has to be
good for you". Now she has her own private blend custom roasted
and shipped
to her every three weeks. The secret is certainly out! And, come
to think
of it, we aren't really the ones who let it out! We are just sharing
it
with you. So, perhaps the end is not near. Perhaps this is only
the real
beginning of civilization.
Bill and Steav Bates-Congdon are the owners and Master Baristas of
The
COFFEE CONNECTION, 148 Water St., Oswego. Email questions or
compliments
to
steav@dreamscape.com. Email complaints to wabates@dreamscape.com
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LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION
The array of coffees available on the market is staggering!
Even when you narrow your search for the Perfect Cup of 'Joe' to
Arabica
Beans, you are still left with literally hundreds of coffees from which
to choose. The quest for the best coffee seems mind-boggling until you
take a moment and rethink your plan of attack. Is it possible that,
like
the search for the Holy Grail, the process is more important that the
goal?
You bet it is! Settle yourself into the following mind set and suddenly
it becomes actually fun to experiment with coffee: Coffee is like
wine...
there is no 'best'... there are oceans of great coffees to swim!
The easiest plan of attack is to decide just exactly what
you are looking for in your mug. Rich? Smooth? Light? Dusky? Creamy?
Woody?
Aromatic? Zingy? Earthy? Winey? Yoikes! Maybe you don't know! So lets
start
the experiment with some sort of organization, this week with Location.
Coffees grow in the tropical area between the Tropic of
Capricorn
and the Tropic of Cancer (no, not the book, the latitude...). And like
Mr. J. Valdez says, the highest grown coffee actually IS the best.
Robustas
(yuck!) grow under 2000 feet up the mountain. Arabicas (yay!) grow
above
the 2000 foot mark. Coffee is an amazing tree. It takes on the flavor
of
the soil it grows in and as a result coffee from one side of the hill
can
taste totally different from the stuff from the neighboring plantation.
All of the variations of the Bean in your local beanery will be the
result
of the soil and weather of their home plantation.
You may have heard rumors of the finest coffee being from
Jamaica. Jamaican Blue Mountain is, in fact, one of the truly great
coffees.
It comes from a single plantation and is grown in extremely limited
quantity
which means (according to the law!) that the greater the demand for it,
the greater the price, 'cause there is only so much acreage on the
farm!
You can pay the $40+ a pound for it, or you can try a different
location!
How about Hawaii? Kona is another great coffee and is the only one
grown
in the United States but it, like the Jamaican, has gotten a lot of
press
lately and as a result its popularity has caused the price to sky
rocket.
Finally (to put an end to the bogus urban legend) neither Kona or
Jamaican
Blue have any more caffeine nor are they 'stronger' (whatever that
means...)
than any other Arabica coffees. Besides, in the $25-$30 range for pure
Kona, we think there are still several better locations to explore.
Central and South America continue to produce wonderful
coffees
and with their emerging economies they are marketing their Beans
vigorously.
More coffee comes from Brazil than anywhere in the world, and we in the
U.S.A. drink the bulk of it, but that doesn't mean it's the best. Some
of it surely is. Excellent and spicy little Brazilian Beans come from
the
Santos region. Colombian is certainly getting its own share of the
market
as well, thanks to a vigorous marketing campaign with the man and the
mule.
Colombian is a fine coffee, well balanced, and nice for everyday
use.
Guatemala and Costa Rico head our particular list of superb growing
regions,
producing hard and highly aromatic Beans that have a great zingy bite
and
make coffee drinking a real pleasure.
Other great locations? How about Indonesia? One splendidly
brewed cup of Sumatra Mandheling might change your life... or at the
very
least it will make a fabulous way to start the day. Africa? O.K., here
is where we make our true confession. We, your humble baristas, are
African
coffee drinkers. Our wonderful chocolate Labrador puppy is named Kenya
AA (double A) for the exceptional Bean from that great coffee growing
country.
Tanzania and Zimbabwe and Zambia all grow outstanding Beans and at
prices
of $10-$14 a pound you can scorn those Jamaican brews in favor of
equally
exciting tastes from even more exotic locations. And let's not forget
the
mother lode of coffee: Ethiopia. Coffee came from there, and there is
arguably
not a better coffee than Ethiopian Yrgacheffe in the world. The only
real
problem with it is how to pronounce it! (YEAR-guh-chef) Drop by your
favorite
beanery, ask if they have a good Yrgacheffe and they will fall all over
themselves assisting you, the coffee aficionado!
Want the inside edge on an up and coming great coffee region?
We don't play the market, so we don't have any money riding on this,
but
it is our guess that in the next ten years some of the worlds great
coffees
will be arriving at your local coffee shoppe from (ready?) Vietnam!
Like wine, you develop the taste for different coffees. And
like wine, there is no one 'best' cup of coffee. And ultimately, like
wine,
YOU can decide which location attracts your taste buds most! The fun is
in the quest. Happy trails!
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WHO'S BRIGHT IDEA WAS THIS?
Etiology. Cool word, eh? It's the word for today. (use it
in
a
sentence at least 5 times and it is yours!) It's a great word for
food,
too, since it sounds like the science of eating, except that it's
not.
Etiology (Eat-ee-AHL-oh-jee) n. the study of where things come from,
their
origins and beginnings, their evolution (the great state of Kansas,
notwithstanding). Or, put simply, it's the study of "who's
bright idea was
this?"
Who's bright idea was this? We have a favorite little bakery
just
around the corner from our coffee shoppe and every time we walk
in we are
wonderfully assaulted with the miraculous smells of marvelously
fresh baked
breads. And each time we wonder (usually out loud) who came up with
the
idea of bread? Dan (our bakery friend) didn't, but he sure has
expanded
on
the idea splendidly. Who thought of picking grains, husking them,
grinding
them, combining them with stuff that makes them rise (I mean,
c'mon!),
and
with eggs and all the weird things that make bread the miracle it
is?
Who's bright idea was this? Marshmallows. My mother once walked
into a grocery store when marshmallow-in-a-jar first came out and
began
reading the ingredients on the label. Finally she asked the clerk
if they
had any "real marshmallow" in a jar... The only things she could
find were
full of egg whites and sugar and corn starch and such. The clerk
looked at
her, thought for a moment and finally asked, "Lady, do you think
marshmallows grow on trees?" She had...
Who's bright idea was this? Coffee grounds. It is already
a leap of
faith to trace how coffee evolved from Kaldi the goatherd
and his goats in
Ethiopia (or Yemen...) to the primary beverage of the entire universe
(remember, Capt. Katheryn Janeway drinks coffee). But like bread
(and
marshmallows) it had to undergo some impressive evolutionary steps
to
become the divine drink it is now.
Who's bright idea was this? Someone had to think about eating
the
pits of coffee cherries. Then someone had to think about roasting
them
(like peanuts!) before eating 'em. Then someone had to think about
boiling
the roasted cherry pits to see if they could drink the results (now
THERE
is a leap of faith...). Then someone had to think about grinding
them up
(like they did with grain? maybe...) and then use boiling water
and FINALLY
we get coffee!
Grinding is one of the most important of the caffeinated
evolutionary steps and is, when you think of it, an amazingly
unlikely
one.
>From merely mashing the toasted beans between rocks we have now
graduated
to 'custom grinding' beans for a particular type of brew. People
in our
shoppe are always asking about the 'right grind' for coffee. They
have the
little coffee grinders at home and want to be sure to do it
correctly.
First, let's be absolutely and blindingly truthful: grinding
your
own coffee fresh each morning (or afternoon or evening) is simply
the
nicest thing you can do for your personal Wah, and for your kitchen,
and
for your coffee. Your Wah is rejuvenated by the joyous release of
the smell
of the freshly ground coffee. Your kitchen is deodorized and the
final
traces of last night's garlic pizza disappear. Your first cup of
Java is
made from the newly liberated coffee oils and all is right with
the world.
So what is the key to the perfect grind?
Well, there isn't one. There is, however, a rule of thumb
that can
help your bean-bashing techniques. Simply put: The longer the water
is in
contact with the grounds, the coarser the grind should be. Got it?
If you
percolate (sigh... we know many of you do, but we still like you
anyway)
then the grind should be quite coarse, almost the consistency of
rock salt
(the table top variety... not the stuff you put on your sidewalk).
French pressing coffee (the method most preferred by your
humble
baristas) still needs a fairly coarse grind, but markedly finer
than for
perk'ing. Vacuum drip is about a medium grind and automatic drip
is right
on the center. Since most people auto-drip, most of the home
grinders
are
designed to smash your beans this far and no farther.
If you are looking for finely ground coffee or espresso grind
(nearly a powder) or (yoikes!) Turkish grind (totally powdered!)
your home
machines won't work - at least the grinders with the little whirling
blades
won't cut it (pardon the pun...) The blades will grind the Bean
just so far
and then they just stir the grounds instead of continuing to grind
them- To
get Fine, Espresso, or Turkish grind you really need to have a burr
grinder
and they are expensive! Better to have your barista at your local
coffee
emporium do it for you with a high quality commercial grinder and
then you
will have the consistency you are looking for each time you brew.
Don't be afraid to change your grind to suit your taste! If
you
like your coffee a little sharper tasting, grind it a little
finer...
For
smoother coffee without the edginess, go slightly coarser. Remember
that
the longer the grounds are in contact with hot water, the more
likely
they
will over-brew and begin to release the yucky bitter taste which
simply
masks the real coffee flavor, which is the goal of this whole
evolutionary
coffee thing, anyway!. Little adjustments will do a lot toward
perfecting
your brew. Grind away!
Bill and Steav Bates-Congdon are the owners and Master Baristas of
The
COFFEE CONNECTION, 148 Water St., Oswego. Email questions or
compliments
to
steav@dreamscape.com. Email complaints to instantovermy@deadbody.com
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ESPRESSO THYSELF (Part 1)
There are little but very important times in anyone's life
(or at
least there should be) when you just feel that the world is so
amazingly
cool that you can barely stand it. Life is better than it usually
is
because of something just awesomely neat. It may be a simple thing,
it may
be a mind-numbing, life altering experience. These cool things come
in all
shapes and sizes.
As you read this, your humble baristas are on vacation.
Actually
we
are just leaving on the day this goes to press. Our publisher (bless
him!)
needs two (count them: 2, Two, II) columns from us so we can get
away and,
frankly all we are interested in is packing and getting the topo
maps
organized and the canoes and camping gear sorted and packed.
Vacations
are
amazingly cool. But so are publishers...
A couple of years ago, two friends of ours asked if we would
be
interested in buying their coffee shoppe. They were doing just
dandy,
but
it was time to downsize a little (the last of the kids had finally
made it
thru college) and we had both been hanging our there for years
(really!)
and we said, "Sure!" The sum total extent of our coffee knowledge
at that
point was: one of us liked it with cream and one of us liked it
with
sugar... Friends are amazingly cool - and at times life altering!
Owning your own little bitty business can be mind-numbingly
cool.
The other day we were watching one of our favorite TV programs on
Animal
Planet called "Emergency Vets". It's sort of like E.R. but real,
and in a
veterinary medical center. (This is an absolutely true story -
honest)
We
are watching as a lady brings her puppy to the vet's after an
accident,
and
what to our wondering eyes should appear, but this lady on TV is
actually
wearing one of OUR shirts from OUR little bitty coffee shoppe:
"Espresso
Thyself! The Coffee Connection, Oswego N.Y." This is amazingly cool!
A few months ago, this guy walks into our shoppe and says
(no this
is not the beginning of a joke), "Do you think you guys could write
enough
about coffee to keep a newspaper column going for, maybe, a couple
years?"
We figure that it actually IS a joke, see, but (obviously) it's
not. We ask
him exactly what he is looking for in the column, and he smiles
and says,
"Coffee stuff... whatever. It's up to you." This is amazingly cool.
Trust
us...
A few weeks ago, another guy walks into the shoppe. (We aren't
making this up, you know...) He asks for a double espresso, strong
("please! Very very strong!") and a glass of hot water. We draw
the
espresso and the glass of water and slide it across the counter.
The smile
on his face is so warm and so genuine that we are tempted not to
charge him
(we do not succumb to the temptation, however...) As the conversation
progresses, as it always does in the right coffee shoppes, we
discover
that
he is from Ethiopia (the motherland of the Bean) and has lived in
Kenya
(the motherlode of the Bean) and traveled and lived all around the
finest
coffee growing regions of Africa and, as if that weren't enough,
he looks
at our attempt at an espresso, beams and says, "Excellent! That
is just
what it should look like!" This is amazingly cool - and amazingly
affirming...
A few days ago, one of our formerly most regular of regulars
and
the founder of our Live Poet's Society group calls us on the phone.
He
moved out of the area about six months ago and settled in Maryland.
We had
imparted to him as much coffee knowledge as we knew while he was
hanging at
the shoppe - he loved making drinks & inventing them &
drinking
them &
playing with the machines. He used to stick his poetry into mugs
and tea
pots and other things that were for sale, or hide it in the strangest
places. Customers actually would return his poetry to us after
finding
it
in an item after they got it home! Anyway, we digress... He calls
and wants
to know (are you ready for this?) how to open his own shoppe in
his new
home. Life rarely gets any more amazingly cool than this.
So wave towards the eastern horizon when you read "Buzz Words"
this
week - we are somewhere around the High Peaks area of the Adirondacks
looking for just the right spot to set up camp, light a fire, boil
some
water and French press one of the selection of coffees that we always
travel with! Two years ago we were a commercial carpenter and a
church
musician and now we own our very own business (we just renewed our
lease),
write a column (or two at a time...), meet fantastic people (lots
and lots
of them), and get to do coffee stuff for a living. It doesn't get
more
amazing than this. Cool beans!
Bill and Steav Bates-Congdon are the owners and Master Baristas of
The
COFFEE CONNECTION, 148 Water St., Oswego. Email questions or
compliments
to
steav@dreamscape.com. Email complaints to Sanka@ick.com
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In this modern world and, we suspect, in all the
worlds gone past, there is not a single thing that is better, more
fulfilling, more enjoyable, more satisfying, more affirming of life
itself
than sitting down with friends and talking. Simple, isn't it...
Just the
passing of time with people you enjoy being with, whose company
you
wouldn't trade for gold, talking about the future, talking about
the
present, talking about the past.
Those who know us well (or those who have gotten to know us
enough!) know that this month is a special little anniversary for
us. Ten
years ago this month we set sail (quite literally!) on our
well-loved
30'
Catalina sloop ANNA CRUSIS, headed south through the Oswego locks,
down the
Oswego Canal with a left turn onto the so-called Barge (really Erie)
Canal,
a right down the Hudson and south from Manhattan for a journey that
would
take us through three countries, 9 states, two years, five
hurricanes,
and
uncountable friends and adventures.
And thru lotsa potsa coffee! Coffee on board a sailboat is
like
gasoline in a car. Ya just gotta have it. You need it before
anything
else
in the morning, you need it when you finish anchoring at night,
you need it
to ward off the chill of approaching winter, and you need it when
facing
and dodging hurricanes spawning out of the Atlantic towards you
-
That year (1989) we dealt... rather admirably, we
think...
with
Gabriel, Hugo, Iris, Jerry, and Karen. There were other storms,
of course,
but we tend to think of those as 'our hurricanes' in a rather
perverse
way.
Our antiquated, dented, fool-proof aluminum stove top drip coffee
pot was
put to the test and passed with flying colors. It sailed across
the cabin
on numerous exciting jaunts up and down waves that Lake Ontario
can only
dream of, got knocked over (full of coffee or at the very least
full of
grounds...eeewww!) more times than we care to recall. It actually
landed
inside the navigation station during one memorable blow.
As Hugo came looming over the horizon with his deadly sights
set on
Charleston, we were tying up (everything!) in a marina on the
northern
edge
of the hurricane warning zone. Hugo was coming, there was no doubt,
and the
only questions were how hard we would get hit and where the eye
would cross
land. Coffee flowed like bottled water at Harborfest, and the four
of us
(Bill, Steav, Steav's Dad and our cat Frika) settled in to wait
out the
night and the onslaught... with coffee in hand.
It was 10 years ago today that Hugo was first sighted off
Africa
and went from infancy to inferno in 7 days. But we were ultimately
spared
the worst of it and continued our journey south until we stopped
in a small
tropical paradise of Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island... which is where
this
whole narrative is also headed! We made friends there... oceans
of 'em and
we sealed those friendships with lots of coffee (and a not
insubstantial
amount of rum...)
Just after opening our wonderful coffee shoppe here two years
ago,
we decided to celebrate by flying down to GBI and visiting Lucaya
and our
friends one more time. It had been nearly eight years. One of our
best
friends in Lucaya, Mary Hoyt, operates a little tiny shoppe where
she sells
her handmade crafts, art work by her various sons, Soca music
recordings
by
her husband, and pierces ears (Steav's) and braids hair (Bill's)!
Our
reunion was the best and she asked tons of questions about our new
shoppe
(there are no coffee shoppes on GBI... hmmmm... there's an idea...)
We asked her if she was a coffee drinker and she laughed and
said
that everyone she knows drinks coffee by the gallon there! We asked
her how
she liked to make it and, with an amazingly puzzled look, she said,
"I just
make it, honey... same as everyone does. Put the water in a pan,
scoop the
coffee in and boil it till it smells right. Then I pour a little
ice water
in so the coffee goes to the bottom and we drink it." Mary had never
heard
of a Mr. Coffee maker. Mary had never dealt with a percolator, or
a French
press, or a vacuum pot. She made coffee and loved it in the same
way her
parents had and their parents before them and so on and so on.
Which opened our eyes to the fact that there simply isn't
a right
or wrong way to brew or enjoy coffee. The way YOU like it is the
way YOU
should drink it. Up to that point we had begun to develop a
'purists'
view
of how coffee "should be brewed". Yet here we were in paradise
(trust
us),
spending time with one of the nicest people in the universe (no
lie) who
loved her coffee and loved making it the way it had been made, quite
literally, centuries ago in Africa, where this whole coffee thing
began.
Cream? Sugar, Equal? Skimmed? Honey? Iced? Decaffeinated?
Flavored?
Mixed with whipped cream? Cocoa? Rum! Raspberry syrup? Half-caff?
Perked?
Pressed? Drip? Vacuumed? Auto-dripped? Boiled!
Have it YOUR way!
Bill and Steav Bates-Congdon are the owners and Master Baristas of
The
COFFEE CONNECTION, 148 Water St., Oswego. Email questions or
compliments
to
steav@dreamscape.com. Email complaints to *$'s@coffeesnobs.com
BUZZ WORDS
for:9.22.0
"JUST BREW IT"
It's been a busy week at our shoppe so we enlisted the aid
of our
secretarial pool sorting through all our email and compiling a
synopsis
of
the most burning questions that you have asked about coffee. The
task was
daunting and we actually had to recruit some extra staff to finish
the
statistical analysis before our deadline, but tireless efforts
pay off.
Here it is, the question that has been weighing on your
assembled
minds for so long (followed, naturally, by the answer...): "What
is the
best way of brewing coffee?"
We would like to answer it simply and unequivocally for you but
that's not
a great idea for two reasons: 1- the column would be too short;
2- there is
no answer.
We can, however, come up with some ideas about selecting YOUR
best
way of brewing The Bean. Compare it to decanting a fine wine and
you get
the idea... Some decant rapidly, some slowly; some use glass
decanters,
some wooden, some pewter; some feel the wine is best when properly
aerated,
some keep the aeration to a bare minimum. Brewing coffee is similar.
It
depends on the taste you are searching for (sorry: for which you
are
searching...)(sheesh!)
First, a quick reminder: the longer The Bean is exposed to
the hot
water the coarser the grind should be. Each method of brewing
requires
some
basic stuff: Clean cold water to start; Clean brewing equipment
to brew;
good quality fresh coffee to use; a decent mug to drink. The water
should
be clean for obvious reasons. Many wells and most city water systems
are ok
but will bring their own flavors to the resulting coffee. Here is
the acid
(?) test of water: if it tastes good on its own, you will likely
be happy
with the taste of the coffee when it's done - Some water systems
are
slightly salinated and that results in bitter coffee - There are
times
(especially during the summer) when many city water systems can
taste fishy
or seaweedy - eeewww! At our shoppe the water goes thru several
different
filters before reaching our brewing system, but in the event that
the city
water becomes unpalatable, we have a backup system that can use
bottled
water!
Cold water, got it? Using warm tap water reduces the amount
of air
in the water and makes the final taste flatter and often metallic.
Let the
tap run for a few seconds until it runs cold and then use that -
Do not
(repeat: do NOT) microwave the water. We don't know the physics
involved
but we can taste microwaved water at 50 paces and it is baaaaad!
Percolating: The coffee will probably be stronger and a bit
rougher
to the taste. Careful not to perk it too long. From the beginning
perk to
the final product should only be a matter of a couple minutes. Perked
coffee is easy to mess up; the boiling rapidly breaks down the coffee
'oils' which hold all the flavor and, frankly, we'll personally
pass on
this method. But it is still popular with many folks.
Pressing: put a good quality, medium grind coffee in the press,
fill with water just off the boil (about 205 degrees... let it sit
for
15-20 seconds after boiling) and let it steep for about 3 minutes.
Push
down the press part and pour out your coffee. Most folks who really
know
their coffee or who really enjoy a rich flavor find that pressing
is about
as close as you get to heaven (your humble baristas agree that
pressing
rules!) It's nearly flawless, as easy as making instant coffee (!),
and the
coffee is divine! There will be a little sediment of grounds in
your mug at
the end, but remember that coffee can be eaten! The sediment won't
hurt you
a bit and you can rinse the grounds right down the kitchen sink!
Drip: certainly Mr. Coffee made his millions convincing us
that
drip coffee is best. We drip at the shoppe (as do almost all
commercial
establishments now) and it is good, no question. Drip coffee uses
filters
that trap some of the oils and reduce the flavor somewhat. Using
a slightly
finer grind can help a bit, but you run the risk of clogging your
filter
basket and having coffee and grounds pouring out everywhere!
For the best results use a manual drip not an auto drip
pot..Pour
the boiling water over the grounds by hand. You have better control
over
evenly soaking the grounds and the flavor will be truer and richer.
Cold brewing is relatively new and our experience with it
is
exceptional! Like making Sun Tea but with The Bean, this method
uses a
special coffee maker to create a pure, crystal clear, very dark
coffee
concentrate that you use like instant coffee! (It is particularly
nice for
iced coffee) We'll talk more about this in an upcoming column.
Americano: OK, we admit this is more for the purist coffee
drinker,
but it is also a great method. Draw yourself a good, rich, thick,
sweet
espresso (about 1 1/2 oz.) and add about 8 oz. of very hot (200
degrees-ish) to the espresso! Italians think it's a cop-out, but
Americans
tend to like it a lot (hence the name!)
Making the coffee can be a challenge first thing in the
morning
for
some of us, but the day starts better with a great cup of coffee.
With
apologies to Nike, Just Brew It!
Bill and Steav Bates-Congdon are the owners and Master Baristas of
The
COFFEE CONNECTION, 148 Water St., Oswego. Email questions or
compliments
to
steav@dreamscape.com. Email complaints to gud2@thelast.drp
BUZZ WORDS
for:9.29.99
French Vanilla Velvet, English Toffee, Irish Creme, Jamaican Rum,
German Chocolate, Linzer Tort, Grand Marnier, Caramel Nut Fudge,
Banana
Creme, Bavarian Chocolate Cherry, Pumpkin Spice, Tiramisu, Toasted
Praline,
Rainforest Supreme, Dutch Chocolate Mint. Raspberry Butternut Creme
(it's
what we are drinking right now!).
The list goes on and on. We have come a long way from the
days when
the coffee choice was simply caffeinated or decaffeinated! While
flavored
coffees will never come near to replacing the great taste of a well
bred
and well brewed regular coffee, there is a whole world of tastes
that are
out there for you to try.
Some people shudder at the very idea of a 'flavored coffee'
but we
believe that deep down inside they wish that they had the raw
courage
to
try some of the newest tastes on the market. (Why stick with vanilla
or
chocolate ice cream when you can get Toffee Heath Bar Crunch? It's
the same
with coffee now.) The array is amazing and the flavors are great!
But be
sure you are getting flavored coffee and not just coffee with a
flavor
added (usually from a sweetened syrup) because, while the syrup
thing is
ok, it isn't the same as a well designed flavored coffee.
Flavored coffees are not gourmet coffees. (not - got it? not!)
Gourmet coffees (we actually don't use the term - we refer to them
as
'select' coffees) have to do with the quality of The Bean,
the quality of
the plantation, altitude of the growing fields, hand harvesting,
hand
washing, and precise roasting in small batches of the highest quality
beans. You can flavor a truly bad coffee and market it - the grocery
stores
are full of them. Flavored coffee (when done right) is a hopefully
high
quality coffee with flavor extracts added to the hot beans
immediately
after roasting. It is not sweetened. It contains no calories, and
it
shouldn't hide the true quality of The Bean but should just
enhance it
with a nice hint of something different.
And the bottom line is: flavored coffees are fun! Your humble
baristas (that's us, by the way) enjoy a flavored coffee often.
Sure we
aren't gonna give up our morning hit of Kenya AA or Sumatra
Mandheling
or
Ethiopian Yrgacheffe, but coffee is a mood drink and there are times
when a
Seville Orange flavor can just hit the spot. Our mood often swings
towards
Rainforest Supreme, a brilliant and delicate combination of tropical
fruit
and nut extracts on a Colombian Supremo Bean. (Our Roaster is simply
a
genius when it comes to flavor profiles).
In fact, all of our flavored coffees are done with a Colombian
Supremo Bean. Most good coffee houses that offer flavored coffees
use a
Colombian. It is the one coffee that Americans universally enjoy.
Colombian
isn't the most expensive coffee, it doesn't have the most unique
flavor, it
is widely available, and the quality of The Bean is stable all year
round.
So it's perfect for using as a flavored coffee base. Well done
flavoreds
allow the brisk bright taste of the actual coffee to come out while
enhancing the experience with a very palatable surprise.
The aroma is to die for (but don't!) Ask any coffee shoppe
owner
what the comment most often heard in his or her shoppe is and you
will get
the same response: "Oh my, it smells good in here!" One of life's
little
joys is grinding a pound of Southern Pecan beans for a customer
and
watching the pecans as they slide into the grinder and smelling
the pungent
fragrance of the nuts and the extracts as they get milled into fresh
grounds. Or the slight high you feel when brewing a Cinnamon French
Roast
and seeing the ground cinnamon sticks releasing a heavenly coffee
(with
apologies to Chock Full of Nuts... but there are no nuts and
it isn't all
that heavenly!), or sitting here on a Sunday evening (which is when
we
write this) with a piping hot Raspberry Butter Nut Creme to feed
the coffee
muse.
Sometimes a little sugar or a little cream enhances the
flavor,
but
try this next time you have a flavored coffee: try it straight up
(no
sugar-no cream) even if you usually put one or both of these into
your mug.
Then decide (after tasting it) what would go well with the flavor.
The
'psychological sweetness' of drinking a chocolate flavored coffee
might
just lead you to forego those 6 teaspoons of sugar; the smoothness
of a
peach (!) flavored coffee could tempt you to leave out the half
and half;
and the brightness of a cinnamon flavored coffee may tempt you to
drink it
black!
Or you may have to succumb to the temptation to try something
totally different in your Almond Amaretto flavored coffee. Pass
the honey,
please?
Bill and Steav Bates-Congdon are the owners and Master Baristas of
The
COFFEE CONNECTION, 148 Water St., Oswego. Email questions or
compliments
to
steav@dreamscape.com. Email complaints to Max@tWellHouse.ugh